Institute of Positive Fashion - 4. Demand for Recycled and Renewable Fibres

KEY STAKEHOLDERS

LEAD

ENABLERS

KEY SYNERGY TOPICS

CIRCULAR DESIGN
CONSUMER EMPOWERMENT
CIRCULAR AND SHARING BUSINESS MODELS
POST-USE ECOSYSTEM
SORTATION AND RECYCLING
POLICY AND REGULATION

To drive improvements in the performance and availability of sustainably produced recycled and renewable fibres, greater brand, retailer, and consumer demand is needed. This is critical to drive investment and technological improvements that will be required to meet design needs and enable mass production. To achieve this, it is important that designers, brands, manufacturers (of yarn, dyes, textiles, and garments) and reprocessors are in dialogue and work together to achieve: a) designs that are suitable for reprocessing and b) recycled outputs that meet the needs of fashion design and creation. This would ensure that recycled fibres can compete with virgin fibres on choice, speed, and price, enabling all consumers to have access to more circular and sustainable fashion.

Brands and retailers should take the lead on raising the levels of recycled and renewable fibres in their products and promote this to consumers, rather than waiting for consumer expectation and demand to grow. As part of this, industry stakeholders must work to overcome common misconceptions of recycled content as undesirable in terms of performance, durability, and consumer experience. This is a crucial complement to the adoption of circular design. There are significant opportunities for stakeholders, particularly brands and retailers, to drive this much needed change in attitude. Targets and selection policies should be implemented, the relevant actors brought to the table, and best practice shared and showcased to help build capacity and confidence in the technological development and sourcing of recycled and renewable inputs

DAX LOVEGROVE

GLOBAL DIRECTOR OF SUSTAINABILITY, JIMMY CHOO AND VERSACE

“There is huge appetite for recycled content and so brands would do well to send signals to suppliers to find recycled content more than they are doing today. This would unleash recycling as a major B2B opportunity across fashion supply chains.”

Recommendations

Matching designs and reprocessing: Brands to lead a multi-stakeholder industry initiative to map out the improvements needed to:
1. ensure that clothing designs are suitable for reprocessing;
2. ensure that recycled inputs meet the needs of design and creation, e.g. on choice, speed, and price; and;
3. help companies identify, capture, and resell excess materials and products.
Utilising supply chain textile waste materials: Manufacturers and reprocessors to convene a multi- stakeholder initiative, including brands and designers, to explore options for repurposing off-cuts and, more broadly, developing a centralised and accessible B2B market platform for trade in supply chain textiles and recycled materials. This platform should be made available to collectors, resellers, retailers, and brands.
Changing perceptions of recycled content: Brands to collaborate with retailers to engage in consumer communications on the benefits and use of recycled content. This is important for high-end brands, where such materials may be seen as inferior and hence, problematic in terms of branding. Simultaneously, brands should work internally to change their perceptions of recycled content by engaging in educational activities. This includes working with academia to continue education and training on the benefits of recycled content for fashion students and independent designers.

CHRISTIAN TOENNESEN

DIRECTOR OF SUSTAINABILITY, SELFRIDGES

“...it’s about putting in place requirements and making it clear we require garments we buy to come from certified materials and set criteria for that, and give brands and their suppliers time to adjust to those expectations.”

CASE STUDY

Stella McCartney

RELEVANT ACTION AREAS

CONSUMER EMPOWERMENT
CIRCULAR AND SHARING BUSINESS MODELS
DEMAND FOR RECYCLED AND RENEWABLE FIBRES

Stella McCartney is renowned for placing animal ethics at the heart of the company, and many of their initiatives also explore innovative approaches to circularity. In 2016 they launched recycled Re.Verso™ cashmere, reported to offer the same qualities as virgin cashmere yet with seven times lower environmental impact. Their Gold-Level Cradle to Cradle Certified wool knitwear yarn reflects material health and reutilisation; renewable energy and carbon management; water stewardship; and social fairness. Their Clevercare initiative, active since 2015, encourages customers to use clothes on more occasions and wash them less often to reduce their carbon footprint. The brand has also worked with the RealReal, aiming to support and promote the benefits of a circular economy for fashion by encouraging customers to extend the life of their products through resale. In 2019, they presented the Infinite Hoodie in collaboration with Evrnu® on the adidas by Stella McCartney collection. The Infinite Hoodie is made from regenerated, discarded textiles and is itself infinitely recyclable.

CASE STUDY

Burberry

RELEVANT ACTION AREAS

CIRCULAR AND SHARING BUSINESS MODELS
DEMAND FOR RECYCLED AND RENEWABLE FIBRES

Burberry have embraced regional of heritage pieces made from with the RealReal, aiming to manufacturing across the north of materials like Econyl, a recycled support and promote the benefits England. In 2020 they launched nylon made from waste such as of a circular economy for fashion their Centre for Manufacturing fishing nets and industrial plastic. by encouraging customers to Excellence in Castleford, The product labels outline key extend the life of their products Yorkshire, to nurture talent and sustainable elements, including through resale. As a result of this protect traditional, artisanal skills amount of recycled natural fibres, portfolio of initiatives, Burberry in collaboration with the UK delivery against carbon emissions is the first luxury brand to pledge Fashion and Textile Association. standards, and social policies to become Climate Positive by The same year, they launched such as living wages for workers. 2040, going further than its the ReBurberry edit, a collection Since 2016, the brand has worked current 2040 net-zero target.

PHOEBE ENGLISH

FOUNDER AT PHOEBE ENGLISH

“For the industry to move forward in a less wasteful manner, producers of clothing could use pre and post consumer textile waste within new work, and exercise producer responsibility by fixing and repairing any clothing they have created that holds their brand name. To help this become general practice across the sector, they could be actively encouraged and supported by legislation and tax breaks to mitigate not only their own but the textile waste of others by regularly re-using this textiles ‘waste’ back into new work and building this practice into their business models”