Institute of Positive Fashion - 6. Post-Use Ecosystem

KEY STAKEHOLDERS

LEAD

ENABLERS

KEY SYNERGY TOPICS

CIRCULAR DESIGN
CIRCULAR AND SHARING BUSINESS MODELS
DEMAND FOR RECYCLED AND RENEWABLE FIBRES
ENHANCED IDENTIFICATION AND TRACKING
SORTATION AND RECYCLING
INNOVATION INVESTMENT

To ensure clothing is circulated at its highest possible value, an integrated and cost-effective post-use ecosystem is needed. That clothing is circulated at its highest possible means that as much use and financial value as possible is gained from the garment’s ‘next
life’ in the circular fashion ecosystem. For example, it means that a garment that is still wearable is resold or rented out to a new user and not passed on to recycling prematurely. To achieve this, it is fundamental to ensure that the UK’s post-use ecosystem is fit for purpose
and has the capacity to deal with the volumes of used clothing collected domestically. At present, the UK’s systems for collecting, sorting, repairing, and reselling used clothing and recovering non-rewearable garments is fragmented and limited in technical capability and capacity. To ensure that collected clothing gets an optimal next life, significant scaling, optimisation, and integration of both public and private systems is needed. Greater integration of collection and revaluation channels will offer more cost-effective and attractive solutions for brands, collectors, and resellers, which should accelerate the uptake of take-back schemes and recommerce. One such option is for brands to repurchase own-brand products for repair, re-use, and resale.

GRAEME RAEBURN

LEAD DESIGNER, ALBION

"What I wanted to challenge was that we keep using the word “waste”. It is a resource. Waste is something that is fundamentally useless or builds on this hierarchy within the fashion industry. I think when we talk about dead stock or “repairing waste”, we need to be talking about enhancements. We need to talk about “valuable” resources, or “limited” resource or “precious” resource or something that sounds more enigmatic than dead stock”

Recommendations

Developing systems for optimised recirculation: Collectors to work with recommerce platform providers, brands and digital innovators to develop technological systems that ensure that used clothes are rerouted through integrated channels that maximise the life
and utilisation of individual items. Through brands and platform providers collaborating, this could involve integration of information and photography from original product listings, providing the potential next user a view of the provenance and journey of individual garments.Expanding solutions for enhanced identification and tracking could facilitate this.
Standardising local authority collection systems: Government to work with institutions, industry bodies and third sector to implement and improve kerbside textiles collection, sorting, and recycling. The priority here should be to achieve a reliable and standardised system across regions, considering both local government and private (tendered) waste treatment facilities. Such consistency will enable multiple benefits, including a single campaign of consistent messaging to all UK citizens. Additionally, successful business case development for further private sector infrastructure investment, using funds raised through the implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR).

DAX LOVEGROVE

GLOBAL DIRECTOR OF SUSTAINABILITY, JIMMY CHOO AND VERSACE

“If it was easier for fashion brands to take back used products and materials into their production systems, and easier for customers as well, I think this would unlock so many opportunities.
Infrastructure is absolutely key.”

CASE STUDY

DHL and large British fashion e-commerce retailer

RELEVANT ACTION AREAS

POST-USE ECOSYSTEM

When DHL’s customer planned to open a new warehouse in North America, they clearly outlined that the site should meet very specific requirements. This included the provision of strong returns capabilities that would enable it to receive and refurbish customer returns ready for resale. As the fashion industry’s leading global logistics partner, DHL offered a suitable warehouse for the retailer and implemented strong standard operating procedures to efficiently manage used and faulty items. These procedures include processes from simple reconditioning like removing dust and spots, cleaning, and polishing items to full repairs like resewing seams or buttons. With these procedures in place, the retailer was able to get 96% of the items back to stock, instead of them going into recycling or liquidation. DHL demonstrated that through greater integration and collaboration between actors across the fashion ecosystem, more cost-effective solutions and sustainable post-use routes can emerge for retailers and brands, helping to maximise utilisation and revaluation through product circularity.

CASE STUDY

DHL and large British fashion e-commerce retailer

FRANZ VON BISMARCK-OSTEN

SENIOR DIRECTOR OF SECTOR DEVELOPMENT FOR THE E-RETAIL & FASHION INDUSTRY, DHL

“I think one of the biggest issues the industry faces in the fashion supply chain is the end-to-end transparency. Do we really know what is happening at each part of the supply chain, from sourcing the material to production and transportation? This visibility however is key to navigate the challenges in this industry. Thus, a clear focus for us is to work on ensuring the visibility across the supply chain with the help of technology.”