Institute of Positive Fashion - 7. Sortation and Recycling

KEY STAKEHOLDERS

LEAD

ENABLERS

KEY SYNERGY TOPICS

DEMAND FOR RECYCLED AND RENEWABLE FIBRES
POST-USE ECOSYSTEM
ECOSYSTEM MODELLING
POLICY AND REGULATION
INNOVATION INVESTMENT

Achieving the circulation of clothing at its highest possible value requires investment in efficient textiles sorting facilities and phased scaling of open-loop, closed-loop, and regenerative recycling. Efficient sorting facilities using a combination of mechanised and manual sorting allow identification of optimal ‘next life’ routes for donated and discarded clothing through pinpointing and segregating garments that are suited for different reuse and recycling options. To build such a system, multiple barriers must be overcome. These include ensuring that there is enough quality feedstock for recycling; investing in technologies for cost-effective mechanised sorting in the UK, investing in the skills needed for both sortation and recycling; and raising the capital needed to build both sorting and recycling facilities. Importantly, a phased approach is required to ensure that infrastructure evolves at pace with the emergence of new recycling technologies and end markets.

ALAN WHEELER

CEO, TEXTILE RECYCLING ASSOCIATION

“We need investment in chemical recycling and regenerative processes to stimulate the market.”

Recommendations

Scaling recycling: Government to carry out a feasibility assessment and conduct a consultation for the phased scaling of open-loop, closed-loop and regenerative recycling within the UK. This should include:
1. developing a roadmap informed by industry, academic and civil society research into the system- wide environmental impacts of scaling chemical recycling; and
2. exploring options for technical solutions that enable high value fibre-to-fibre recycling. Scaling activities should take into consideration interlinkages with the transition to renewable energy within the UK.
Modelling industry and innovation hubs: Government to undertake a feasibility study, including economic and material flows modelling, for the development of centralised textiles circularity hubs that involve:
1. co-location of R&D facilities;
2. advanced and large-scale sorting facilities;
3. warehouses and outlets for recommerce and licenced upcycling;
4. plants for reprocessing; and
5. channels for the raw materials to feed into end markets, including UK textiles and garment manufacturing.
Investing in upskilling for sortation and recycling: Institutions, industry bodies and third sector to work with government on investing in, promoting and implementing the upskilling of workers to meet the emerging demand for sortation and recycling. As new sorting and recycling technologies are developed, there will be a need for technicians, technology developers, engineers and manual sorters, who will remain crucial for finer sorting even as automation increases. These changes will also require greater logistics expertise across the sector.

BERNIE THOMAS

CIRCULAR ECONOMY AND SUSTAINABILITY MANAGER, THE SALVATION ARMY TRADING COMPANY LTD (SATCOL)

“Ideally, we would like to resupply more recyclable items into textile supply chains in the UK, as there is an environmental and economic advantage to doing that. British textiles are well regarded with a heritage and could reinvent itself as having provenance and sustainability, by using recycled content.”

CASE STUDY

Worn Again Technologies

RELEVANT ACTION AREAS

SORTATION AND RECYCLING

Worn Again Technologies has developed a polymer recycling technology for non- rewearable textiles which separates, decontaminates and extracts polyester and cellulose (from cotton) to be returned back into supply chains. The goals of the technology are to produce virgin equivalent quality and cost competitive outputs via an environmentally beneficial industrial process. Trials and product testing are being carried out at the Worn Again Technologies’ pilot plant in Redcar, England and the company is working with Swiss engineering partner Sulzer Chemtech to scale up. The business is backed by investors including H&M Group, Sulzer Chemtech, garment supplier Himes Corporation, and textiles supplier Directex. It has the support of pioneer members including Kering, Asics Europe, Sympatex, Dibella and Dhana. Their model is based on licensing to plant operators worldwide, indicating the potential scalability of circular technologies.

CLAIRE BERGKAMP

COO, TEXTILE EXCHANGE

“There is a huge amount of textile waste. To date, there is no emphasis on creating infrastructure that would allow for its recycling. The UK should take a leadership role in providing municipal services - better textiles collection, sorting it and creating the space and place for recycling.”